Painting

Assembling and Painting Orly | Critical Role

Bidet Critters,

We’re back with another painting tutorial for you wonderful people out there to draw some inspiration from. We’ve included a quick assembly guide with this one so you can all see the process from start to finish!

Assembly

If you’re new to working with resin, check out our previous blog which provide some general advice for the cleaning and assembly of resin miniatures. Once you’ve had a read through that article, continue on to see how to assemble Orly!

A resin prototype was used to create this guide, not the final resin production piece. The pieces will be same though! Always dry fit your pieces before trying to glue them, to ensure a good fit. Apologies for the dirty nails, I’ve been busy painting!

Step 1 - Cleaning Up the Miniature

Before you start putting on glue on the pieces of your Orly miniature we recommend going over the miniature with a sharp exacto knife and some files to clean up any excess material left from the casting process. Where possible always cut away from yourself, and take your time. You can always remove more material if needed, but it’s much harder to put it back! If you’re a youngster be sure to get assistance from an adult when handling sharp objects!

Step 2 - Clipping the
Sword off the Sprue

The sword for the Orly miniature comes on a sprue, you can use either a sharp exacto knife or a pair of clippers to remove the sword off the sprue.

Step 3 - Dry Fitting

With all the pieces of the miniature cleaned up and prepped for assembly it’s time to dry fit the pieces to ensure everything fits as it should. Remember, don’t use any glue when dry fitting!

Step 4 - Attaching the
Head to the Body

Glue the head to the body. Check for gaps, while the glue is drying and make adjustments as needed. There is a small hole located at the top of the neck on the main body section of the miniature, make sure the small nub on the back of the head sits in this hole.

Step 5 - Attaching the
Shell to the Body

Glue the shell to the body. This step is fairly self explanatory, as long as you took your time during clean up this will fit really snuggly!

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Step 6 - Attaching the
Arm to the Body

Glue the arm to the body. Be sure not to use too much glue!

Step 7 - Attaching the
Tail to the Body

Glue the tail to the body. Nearly finished now, just 2 steps to go!

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Step 8 - Attaching the
Sword to the Body

Glue the sword to the body. Again, be sure to control the amount of glue you apply!

Step 9 - Attaching the
Miniature to the Base

Glue the feet to the base. Just a little dab of glue on each foot should be plenty of glue here! With that complete, we’re all done!


With assembly complete, you’re ready to move on to priming your miniature. For some handy tips, you can check out our guide on priming. Once your miniature is primed, you’re ready to move onto the stage where the real fun begins… painting!

Painting Orly

For this tutorial, Army Painter paints were used. These are nice paints that are widely available online and at your local game store. When using Army Painter be sure to shake them very well, and when you squirt them out onto your pallet mix them with a wet brush before applying them to your model. We recommend their Regimental Brush as well. It is what was used to paint this whole miniature and is a great all-around work horse brush.

If you’re brand new to painting and find it all a bit intimidating, we hear you! To achieve a great looking paint job using some fantastic beginner techniques, only follow step 1, step 2, step 3, and step 5. These steps show the basics of blocking in base colors over the entire miniature, adding some washes to these base colors to help bring out the detail of the sculpt, and some finishing touches such as basing your miniature.

Most important of all, take your time and have fun with it! Let’s begin!

Step 1 - First Layer: Apply Your Base Colors

Shell and Eye Patch: Oak Brown
Bagpipe, Pouch, and Claws: Leather Brown
Coat and Shash: Deep Blue
Skin: Greenskin
Sword Guard, Pipes, and Rope: Desert Yellow
Sword Hilt: Dragon Red
Pipe Rims, Belt Buckle, Sword, and Buttons: Gun Metal

Having a smooth, even base coat to work from is very important part of painting. To achieve this you will want to work from the innermost detail out. You will want to use multiple thin coats of paint to build up a smooth opaque coat of paint. Most colors will take a few thin coats, but some lighter colors like the Greenskin used for the skin will take a few more coats to achieve full coverage. Take your time and make sure to thin and mix your paints well. Allow time for drying between layers so that you do not wipe away a layer you have already applied.

Painters Note: Having good light for painting can be very helpful in making sure you are getting good coverage. Desk lamps with daylight bulbs are a good place to start!

Step 2 - Second Layer: Wash

Skin and Shell: Flesh Wash
Rest of the Miniature: Soft Tone Wash

These washes will help to shade the model and smooth out brush strokes. Mix them well but don’t water them down too much or they can dry leaving a very chalky finish. Apply the washes to the different areas of the model as shown in the list above. If you apply too much, simply rinse your brush, dry it off, and then use it to wick up the excess wash from the model. You will want the wash to pool in the creases and folds of the cloth to help shade the model, but be aware of excess wash pooling toward the bottom of the miniature.

Step 3 - Third Layer: Recovery Layer

Shell: Dry Rust
Coat and Shash: Ultramarine Blue
Skin: Army Green
Scales: Scaly Hide
Claw, Horn, and Sword Guard: Skeleton Bone
Rope: Desert Yellow
Open Eye, Flute, and Cleanup: Matt Black
Sword Hilt: Dragon Red
Metals: Shining Silver

The washes will dull down the model quite a bit, so you will need to bring back some shine to the metals, and brighten up some of the other colors. Again work from innermost detail to outermost where possible. For the shell allow some of the under color to show through by using only one thin coat of Rusty Red. When working on the skin you can carefully dry brush the Army Green allowing the raised details to catch most of the paint. To dry brush, use a small older brush with good bounce to it’s bristles. Put some unthinned paint on your brush of choice, then wipe most of your paint off of your brush on a paper towel (hence the term dry brushing). Then, with quick back-and-forth sweeping motions, brush the models skin areas.

Once you’re happy with the Army Green, pick out the scales with Scally Green. If you find you have lost some definition of the scales feel free to wash them a little with Flesh Wash to re-establish them. Avoid allowing paint to run into the crevasses by using a brush with less paint on it.

If you have made any mistakes, go back and clean them up with the appropriate color. Then if the eyes need it, black them out and/or add separation back between the claws and skin. If you are happy with your model, you can stop here as the next step is optional. However, be sure to paint your base black or base it as you see fit to add that extra finished look. Advice on how to go about doing this can be found in step 5 of this tutorial.

Painters Note: Steadying your hands and having your mini on a holder will help greatly with brush control, allowing you to be more accurate with your brush strokes.

Painters Note: Having the right amount of paint on your brush is important. A good rule of thumb is to have a damp brush dipped in paint but not fully submerged, and then wiped off on a paper towel or pallet a few times. This will give you good control of where the paint is going and keep the tip of your brush nice and pointed.

Step 4 - Fourth Layer: Edge Highlights

Edge Highlight the Sword Guard and Claws: Mummy Robes
Edge Highlight the Rest of the Model: Skeleton Bone

The model can be edge highlighted now, which is a quick and easy way of highlighting. Make sure to use a damp brush with most of the paint removed. Then very gently and at a crossed angle to the line you are painting brush along the edge. Take your time and steady your hands well, it can take a few strokes of the brush to get the desired effect. The image of Vanessa below does a good job of demonstrating the sort of angle you’re looking for. For the face it can help to turn the model upside down to get an easier angle on its edges.

Step 5 - Finishing Touches

With your model painted, you can choose how you would like them to be based. It’s perfectly fine to leave the base black, but just make sure to clean up the edge and give the base a nice even coat of black paint to really help the model look finished. Alternately you can use sand and glue or pumice gel to give the base some earthy texture and then paint it to match whichever setting you like. You can then add some static grass or grass tufts to bring the base to life. Examples of both can be seen below.

If you plan to use this miniature for gaming, it is a good idea to seal it with either a spray-on sealer such as Testor Dullcote or Army Painter Anti-Shine. There are brush-on options available if the idea of using a spray can on your freshly painted miniature is something you’re wary of. In either case, be sure to follow the application instructions provided. Always test your sealer before applying it to your miniature to make sure it cures correctly.

We hope you have enjoyed this tutorial and found some useful tips to help you complete your very own Orly miniature. If you find yourself struggling with a technique or are unsure where to start, do some test painting on other miniatures first or even on paper to help with brush control and paint flow.

We would love to see your results once your Orly miniatures arrive, so post them up on Twitter using #CrittersPaint!








Painting the Masons and Brewers Terrain Pack

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With the terrain pack being released, I'd like to share this painting tutorial to help you all get your terrain sets painted up and on the pitch. I'll try to go into enough detail of the techniques I use for those of you who are new to terrain painting or model painting in general.

I use Army Painter paints to get the job done along with a few different brushes. Army Painter makes some nice starter brushes that work great for terrain painting. If you don’t have access to those specifically, the brushes you can find at your local hobby or craft store will work well too. You mostly want something with good spring to the bristles. Just avoid cheap water color brushes.

Materials:

Paints:
Oak Brown, Dragon Red, Mummy Robes, Skeleton Bone, Leather Brown, Fur Brown, Dark Stone, Ultramarine Blue, Desert Yellow, Electric Blue, Uniform Grey, Greenskin, Gun Metal, Plate Mail Metal, Strong Tone Wash, and Soft Tone Wash.

Other tools:
Decent small brush, medium sized dry brush, small dry brush, black primer, white primer, glue PVA or wood glue, static grass, and gloss medium.

I will give an overview of how to paint a few of the pieces in this set in a timely fashion that will still have them looking great on your pitch. The techniques demonstrated can be applied to the other pieces that come in this set.

Prime and Base Wash:

Step 1: Prime the set with black primer and then highlight it with zenithal white spray paint. I use Duplicolor White Enamel because it goes on nice and light with minimal speckling. When zenith priming, hold the can at a 45-degree angle from the piece and do wide slow passes over it. You're not looking to fully cover the piece, only to hit the raised portion of the piece, simulating light hitting the piece. This will give you a good starting base for shadows and highlights and it works well for painting stone textures.  

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Step 2: Spot wash the pieces with Stong Tone Wash to reinforce the deep shadows and add some earthy tones to the surfaces of the stone and wood. 

Primer2.jpg

From here we can go in and start working on the details of each piece.

Announcer's Tower Barrier:

Step 1: Give the earth a wet coat of Oak Brown, allowing the paint to remain somewhat transparent to let the zenithal undercoat show through. Then give the brick a heavy dry brush of Dragon Red. I used a medium sized flat drybrush for this. After you dry brush the red, give all the other details a light dry brush with Mummy Robes. This will make all those details pop. 

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Step 2: With the base coat established we can now start on some of the detail-work. Using the Army Painter Regiment brush, paint in the mortar of the bricks with Skeleton Bone. Paint the wood with Leather Brown, again, letting some of the Zenith show through. Dry Brush the soil and the edges of the wood with Desert Yellow. 

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Step 3: Paint the Guild Ball Logo with a 1:1 mix of Ultramarine Blue and Dark Stone. Then paint the metal banding and other metal details with Gun Metal. Pick out a few random bricks and paint them with Dark Stone to add some variety. With the details blocked in give the Bricks a final dry brush of 1:1 Dragon Red and Desert Yellow. Finally, highlight the edges of the stone with Mummy Robes. Using the edge of your brush, run it along the raised upper edges of the grey stone and wood.

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Forest Tree with Flags:

Step 1: Paint the Earth with Oak Brown then Dry brush the tree and details with Mummy robes using a medium dry brush to speed up the process. 

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Step 2: Paint the Exposed tree with Uniform Grey. Apply wet but don’t let the paint pool to much in the cracks. Control the amount of paint on your brush by having a paper towel on hand to make sure the paint brush is not over loaded with paint. Paint the bark and wood debris with Leather Brown. Paint the Flags with Ultramarine Blue. 

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Step 3: Bring some color back into the tree with some Soft Tone wash. Don’t wash the whole tree with it. Instead, focus on the places where the flags are tied to the tree and the undersides of branches. Wash the debris with Soft Tone as well. Paint the bottle with Greenskin. Once the wash has dried, dry brush the ground and details with Desert Yellow.

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Step 4: Edge Highlight the flags with Electric Blue. Give the tree, bark, and wood debris a final dry brush highlight with Mummy Robes. With this final highlight only use downward strokes with the brush on the tree branches to create the illusion of light hitting the upper most details of the branches. 

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Small Obstacle Barrels and Crates:

Step 1: Having a variety of wood colors can help make these little guys pop on the battlefield. For this piece use Leather Brown, Fur Brown, and Dark Stone for the wood. Then give a light dry brush with Desert Yellow to tie them all together. 

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Step 2: Paint the metal bands with Gun Metal, and the bottles with Greenskin. Wash the details with Soft Tone. 

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Step 3: Lightly dry brush Skeleton Bone as a highlight for the wood. Make sure to use the direction of your brush stroke to your advantage, turning the piece so that your brush is going crosswise and NOT parallel to the details. Use the edge of your brush to give a more solid edge highlight to edges of the boxes. Edge highlight the metal bands with Plate Mail Metal. 

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Applying Static Grass:

Once you have all your pieces painted to this level, take your favorite static grass and using wood glue or PVA glue, apply it in a random pattern. I sprinkle the grass on and then turn the piece upside down and give it a good couple of taps on the bottom to shake the excess off and to help the grass stand up. 

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Spilled Beer Fast Ground:

It's time to make the spilled beer look wet. Paint the suds with Skelton Bone and then wash them with Soft Tone to smooth out the area. Once dry, use a gloss medium, floor polish, or something like Vallejo's Still Water to make the puddles look wet (You can also paint the glass bottles with it to make them look shiny.) Finally, dry brush the suds with Mummy Robes. If you seal your miniatures, make sure to apply the gloss after you have sealed them.

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And with that you should have nicely painted set of terrain to put out on your Guild Ball pitch for your next game. I love nothing more than playing a game on fully painted table with fully painted miniatures, feels great!


If you'd like to replicate Michael's instructions then get the Brewer's Guild & Mason's Guild Terrain Pack.